Wellcultured - Well Cultured is a men’s online magazine with advice and reviews on fashion, dating, finances, health, music, movies and many other topics, as well as a robust message board and the Well Cultured Guide, a freely editable community wiki.

As a 23 year old entering a new professional job I intend to take advantage of the cheap Shenzhen tailors on my way through Hong Kong, what basics should I get made, colours, fits etc.? (I was thinking three suits, 5-8 shirts, a blazer and 2 overcoats)

You’re on the right track, to be certain.

Like I’ve mentioned before on here (incessantly), always have something conservative as a backup. You can almost never go wrong with having a simple black suit tailored to fit you perfectly- a black suit can be work for business, for formal occasions, and even casually, pending you do so correctly. Similarly, dark blue suits and darker gray suits are almost always usable in both the business and private world.

So far as fits and general cuts are concerned, avoid anything too modern (like thin lapel suits). While they are in style now, I’m getting the creeping suspicion they will fall out of fashion very soon. For the suit itself, you should probably stick to suits with notch lapels and a single vent, which is pretty standard with most suits. So far as the pants are concerned, make damn sure they aren’t too baggy- keep them well fitted to your leg, and obviously, make sure there are no pleats.

If I were you, so far as suits are concerned, I’d go for two conservative suits and one more ostentatious suit, which would cover your bases pretty damn well. For example, for the first two, I’d go for one in black and one in charcoal or navy, notch lapel, single or double vent, very simple with flat front trousers. For the more ostentatious, I’d go for a color you don’t have (let’s say a charcoal) with pinstriping or some other style to it- maybe a peak lapel, just something to differentiate it. Of course, regardless of the way they look, get them tailored to perfection.

As for the shirts, go for at least two in white, the remainder in simple colors that match the suits. Try out some french cuff shirts- french cuffs, in my opinion, are wonderfully stylish, pending you are willing to wear cufflinks (and get the suits tailored to work with the french cuffs- the sleeves are usually made a teensy bit shorter to show the cuff). Depending on your body shape and size, experiment with point collars and spread collars. Undoubtedly, you should keep the color/style of tie you plan to wear with the shirt in mind.

As for the overcoats and blazers, that’s really where you can have fun. If you do get a blazer, you can’t go wrong with a nice navy Polo Ralph Lauren-style preppy blazer, or maybe a casual black or brown blazer to wear around. For the overcoats, topcoats are always advantageous (stick to black, gray, or brown- white is hard to deal with/to clean).

In any case, have a ball. If you shop in the right locations, you’ll be able to get plenty of help. Find photos you like and carry them with you. Try on everything. By the time you’re done, you’ll have one hell of a wardrobe.

What types of leather jackets are light enough to wear anytime during the year, yet warm enough to wear in winter? Better yet, how much should I be looking to spend and who makes good jackets?

Ohh, tough question. Let me start from the top.

Most leather jackets are going to be fairly hot regardless of style. Obviously, if you are looking for something versatile, I’d avoid any kind of super-heavy leather jacket- generally, ones with sheepskin insides/collars are the worst. I’ve found that motorcycle jackets are generally the coolest, but even they are pretty warm. So far as what you are willing to spend, leather jackets are damn expensive- expect to pay a couple hundred for a really, really good jacket. I’ve personally found that good quality leather jackets range from $250 to $800. Remember to shop for real leather- don’t get duped into super-cheap synthetic leather crap.

Now for the brand. So long as you aren’t buying off eBay or anything, honestly, you’ll find that even some of the smallest places have pretty high quality leatherware. Of course, groups like Schott NYC have absolutely great leather goods, and even more “designer” brands like Zegna are reputed to have decent jackets. Realistically, I’d advise you just go jacket hunting everywhere. Try everyone- leather stores, big department stores like Nordstroms, even places like Kenneth Cole joints. Ideally, go there physically, don’t shop online- not only can you try on the leather (which is important- tailoring leather is hard to do) AND check the quality. Look for a jacket with real leather, firm stitching, high quality zippers/snaps/whatever, and a good return/repair policy- treat the jacket like a major investment, much as you would a small car.

In any case, I’m sorry I can’t provide a single “go buy this” sort of answer- much like jeans, leather jackets are the kind of thing you have to go hunting for and try on. Good luck!

What do shoes say about a man? To your average man, they are nothing more than a comfortable way to get from point A to point B. Shoes are versatile and serve many purposes. Average people do not seem to notice or care about the fashion statement that shoes make. A well-cultured man is not an average man and this should be reflected in his wardrobe. Shoes mean so much more than a means of comfort, they can define a man. A man does not wear a suit with sneakers because a suite is not meant to go with sneakers; moreover, a man does not wear casual clothes with square-toed pennies. It simply sends the signal of bad taste or a complete lack of understanding how an outfit is put together.

The right kind of shoe can say so much about a person and conversely, the wrong kind of shoe can do exactly the same thing. There are essential shoes of every man’s wardrobe. Every man must have dress shoes, fashionable run-around shoes and then the athletic shoes. Every man must have these three pairs of shoes to be the basis of a simple but respectable wardrobe. I believe whole heartedly that fashion starts from the ground up.

Now that I’ve successfully broken down shoes into three fashion groups, I’ll take the time to expand on those groups and show the diversity that exists within this group. We will start with the ever dependable, casual and versatile fashion shoes, athletic shoes, and dress shoes.

Casual Fashion:

Fashion athletic shoes come from many different companies and many different price ranges. I will begin with an economy shoe, mid-range shoe and a high-end shoe.

Low Price: American Eagle, Magellan Sport Oxford, Payless Shoes $25 USD

American Eagle has always been known for their clean-cut college dorm look and these shoes epitomize that look. The AE Magellan is a classy, simple shoe with a clean off-white color with elegant brown highlights. The shoe itself is made of frayed canvas and has a protective rubber bumptoe. The sole of the shoe itself has extra padding which offers the best comfort when running errands around town.

Mid-range: American Eagle, Fusion Athletic, Payless Shoes $35

This is another ideal shoe for just running around town. This is another simple style that doesn’t stand out, but it can put an ensemble together. These go perfectly with the T-shirt and Jeans look or the summer barbeque look. These shoes just scream comfort and function and they are not overbearing on an already classic American style.

High-End: Adidas, Classic Vulcan $65 (www.shopadidas.com)

This is a shoe that takes the classic Adidas look and doesn’t do a whole lot to mess it up. This is the perfect shoe for a night on the town.

Asics, Mexico 66 $80 (www.urbanoutfitters.com)

This is another high-end model that can be daring if worn correctly. This shoe features a suede upper with leather highlights. The foot bed is contoured and very comfortable and textured rubber allows for a very heavenly experience for your feet.

Athletic Shoes:

Every well-cultured man has a certain fitness routine and the proper shoe makes all the difference. The key for these shoes is comfort above all. You aren’t at the gym to compare outfits, so get your mind right! There’s really no economy, mid-range, high-end shoes for this category. There are two shoes here, one I would recommend for anyone who is into running and another for those just beginning.

Asics: Gel-Evolution 4 $110 (www.asicsamerica.com)

This is the Gel-Evolution 4 from Asics, a brand that has always been at the forefront of the athletic training shoes industry. The GE-4 is “designed to provide maximum support, with an extra wide platform and toe box for superior stability.” Asics has been known for their gel support that really does more than just provide a cool gimmick. These shoes are at the top when it comes to overall flexibility and comfort.

New Balance: 587 $99 (www.nbwebexpress.com)

This shoe is perfect for the heavier set man because it provides cushioning where it is needed the most: in the heel.

Dress Shoes:

The dress shoe is the secret weapon of well-cultured men. While it might not occur to you at first, dress shoes can go a long way. People notice shoes more often than you think because they can make or break an outfit. Dress shoes come in many different styles and price ranges so I will offer the best variety that I can.

Low Price:

Concepts by Claiborne: Bronx $60 (www.jcpenney.com)

This is a very classy shoe for those with lighter pocket books. It doesn’t take a lot of money to look good and at sixty dollars, you really can’t go wrong with these. This shoe is made of soft nappa leather and has a comfortable and sturdy rubber sole.

Dockers: Bastille Oxford $70 (www.jcpenney.com)

This shoe has a more casual tone in terms of being a dress shoe meaning that this would be great for the office, out on the town or weekend getaways.

Mid-Range:

Banana Republic: ‘Asher’ Penny Loafer $138 (www.bananarepublic.com)

I’m a huge fan of Banana Republic. They always seem to have the right shoes that never go out of style. The penny loafer is a traditional shoe and it’s very hard to mess with tradition.

High-End

Allen Edmonds: Park Avenue $325 (www.allenedmonds.com)

Allen Edmonds is a domestic shoe manufacturer based out of Port Washington, Wisconsin. It is one of two American shoe companies that still make their shoes domestically. This shoe is a prime example of American style. The park avenue is the perennial best seller and there’s no questioning the appeal. When it comes to a shoe like this, no price is too high.

Alden: Leisure Slip on $ (on request) (www.aldenshoe.com)

Alden is the other company that makes their shoes domestically. Based out of Middleborough, Massachusetts, the company hand sews all their shoes and the quality and care is shown beautifully.

Zelli: Encore 503 Italian Black Calf $309 (www.suityourself.com)

The Zelli Encore 503 is a beautiful example of Italian Design. This slip on is made of nappa leather and features a super flex sole. This classic style is a testament to why Italian shoes are so coveted.

Due to popular demand, we’ve started a new section- “Doing it Right”, a collection of images of men and women, simply put, doing fashion right. Our first gallery is of male celebrities- some people you no doubt have heard of, some you may have not. As expected, many of these celebrities are stylish- but some are unique and bold enough to set real standards in their industry that transcend the normal fare. Here are some of those men.

Sean Combs - Rapstar turned Fashion Idol

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Sean Combs is a man who made rap go professional- I'm not kidding. With his unique influence in fashion by taking suits and making them fashionable again, he has created a veritable fashion empire. His clothing line, Sean John, is urban mixed with the absolute perfection in menswear- and hey, it's not Brooks Brothers, but it's damn awesome. Pictured, Diddy's classy pinstriped suit, is impeccably tailored and accented- and carries a gangster feel that adequately connects with his rap beginnings.