Wellcultured - Well Cultured is a men’s online magazine with advice and reviews on fashion, dating, finances, health, music, movies and many other topics, as well as a robust message board and the Well Cultured Guide, a freely editable community wiki.

As it’s now officially summer and many of you are likely out in the bright sun, a pair of sunglasses are a great — and in many cases, invaluable — part of your wardrobe. For that purpose, here’s a quick overview of some of the basics types of glasses, how to buy a good pair, and some requisite warnings about sunglasses in general.

The Big Four Big Styles of Sunglasses

While there is an incredible amount of variation with sunglasses nowadays, sunglasses as we know them can be broken down into four distinct styles — aviators, wayfarers, browlines (clubmasters), and sport sunglasses. There are other styles that have found popularity (I’ll mention them briefly near the bottom of this section), but these are the top 4 you’re likely to run into.

	Aviators Aviators are what are generally the most popular nowadays for most men. Aviators, as their name indicates, really developed popularity vis-a-vis pilots, but also via pop icons of the day wearing them, such as Tom Cruise in Top Gun. Aviators are typically considered to be very masculine and, because they can be readily reshaped without looking ridiculous, they can be made to fit a variety of facial shapes. While traditional aviators (especially traditional Ray-Ban aviators) typically feature a flat lens, many brands now (Ray-Ban, Armani Exchange, etc etc) have begun to transition to shaped lenses, such as aviators with a more ergonomic wrap-around style. Aviators are generally appropriate for 95% of the male population. As I mentioned above, most brands carry a variety of sizes, styles, and colors, which allow for virtually any facial shape or style to look at least moderately decent in them. This, of course, means a huge percentage of the male population also has them. Nonetheless, if you want a good all-around pair of sunglasses, Aviators tend to be one of the better buys you can make.
	Wayfarers Wayfarers are another huge seller, especially nowadays. Wayfarers have a teensy bit less history to them than Aviators — designed specifically for the consumer market, Wayfarers were a deliberate (and quite successful) attempt at making a unique but utterly stylish frame in chunky plastic rather than metal. What resulted was a chunky but not overly large pair of remarkably modern looking sunglasses, which ended up selling ridiculously well, especially as they were adopted by celebrities. In the 80s, Wayfarers had a significant resurgence which died out in the 90s, but today Wayfarers are enjoying a return to popularity as people look increasingly towards 80s fashion. As they are incredibly cheap to make (pending the lenses are cheap as well), Wayfarers are available in countless knockoff varieties. Wayfarers are, like Aviators, now available in a variety of styles, colors, and sizes, so they can work for virtually anyone, male or female. With that being said, their popularity now appears to be something of a fad, one that will likely die down eventually as other glasses take the forefront. While the style itself will never die off completely, it’s likely that, even today, wearing Wayfarers could be seen as a bit outdated or overdone. Feel free to adopt them, but be careful.
	Clubmasters (Browline Sunglasses) Clubmasters, a I predicted a year or two ago, are beginning to hit a major resurgence despite their relatively antiquated appearance. Constructed as perhaps a mixture of a Wayfarer and an Aviator, Clubmasters are sunglasses with a very strong plastic upper piece holding a lens, which is supported underneath by a wire. This hybrid look is distinctly masculine and very retro, and it evokes memories of the 50s and, very controversially, the public figure Malcolm X. These are really building up steam in the fashion world — they’ve been increasingly seen in movies and TV shows (think Tom Hanks in Catch me if you Can or Noah Bennet in Heroes), and are likely to come back to the fashion scene full force very soon. Clubmasters are hard to deal with, period. As they are very masculine glasses, they tend to look ridiculous on anyone who couldn’t plausibly pull off the 50s retro vibe — many stars have tried making them modern with very little success. Clubmasters are not for the avant garde — they are for the gin and tonic crowd. With that being said, if you have a masculine face and could plausibly pull off the retro vibe (either in the hypermasculine Mad Men sense or even the somewhat sporty 40s Ivy League sense), wear them, ASAP. Otherwise, stay the hell away from them.
	Sports Sunglasses (Wraparounds et al) I’m lumping most (if not all) sporty shades in here for a reason — they aren’t made for fashion. Sport shades, notably brands such as Oakley, are not made so much for fashion as much as they are for utilitarian purpose. For the most part, sport sunglasses are distinguishable by being made to wrap around (both in the lenses and in the arms), and in the fact that they typically have changes made to them to be more useful for active people (for example, grips on the end of the sunglass arms to hold to your head if your head moves quickly). As you can probably guess, these are really not advisable to wear in the context of fashion. If you need them for a specific purpose (sports), buy a pair and wear them for that. However, wearing them outside of that context tends to look ridiculous. While arguably all sunglasses are made for activity and style, sport sunglasses are largely not fashionable.
Other Styles Of course, there are many other styles — I’m just not covering them, as they don’t appear as often. Many brands have various forms of rectangular sunglasses, which are simply rectangular lenses with very basic wire frames. Very very rarely, you will find things like teashades (traditionally, small circle lenses) on the market. More commonly, the above categories will usually be fused into some new style or fashion that really never takes hold — for example, bug eye sunglasses (largely an article of women’s fashion) sometimes make their way into the men’s market via modifications to Wayfarers and/or Aviators, which usually never look good.

How to Buy a Good Pair

So, now that you understand the four basic pairs, the question emerges: how the hell do you find a good pair?

First, ascertain your facial shape. Figuring out your facial shape is essential to determining what looks good on you. For example, if you happen to have a fat face, for example, try to avoid wearing anything that looks too ridiculously small or huge — either will make your face look bloated or disproportionate. Alternatively, if you have a square face (especially a strong jaw), try to avoid any frames that are too slender, lest they make your face look ridiculously wide.

Second off, prepare to pay good money. Never ever buy cheap sunglasses. While it always seems tempting to do so, the purchase rarely works out well in the long run. If you tend to lose or break sunglasses ridiculously easy, it is a different story — however, nothing quite beats the quality (both in the lenses, the frames, and the general style) of a good pair of $100+ sunglasses. Do not be cheap.

Third off, shop around, and bring a friend. Try everything you possibly can on. While it’s easy to try to ascertain your facial shape, it’s more difficult to see how sunglasses will work on you — always try things on in person, never ever buy online unless you have tried them on in person elsewhere. Remember, sunglasses tend to change the shape and appearance of your face — do not be cheap or quick to buy anything.

Basic Knowledge and Warnings about Sunglasses

• If you can, buy sunglasses with good UV protection. Typically, sunglasses of this caliber are labeled UV 400, but there are various demarcations. Many cheap sunglasses do not feature this protection, which is a very strong reason to buy a solid, slightly more expensive pair.
• Polarization matters… somewhat. Polarization is not so much protection per se as much as it is reduction of glare. This does not necessarily make these sunglasses better for UV protection, but it does help in many circumstances. Nonetheless, it is not a necessity for most.
• Mirroring isn’t necessary, and somewhat played out. Mirrored sunglasses typically filter out more sunlight than other sunglasses, but this makes them neither more effective at protecting your eyes from UV radiation nor better sunglasses in general. Mirrored aviators at one point were somewhat popular, but are now somewhat cheap and played out. They can be done, but not very easily.
• Scratchproofing is useful for obvious reasons. It may cost a bit more, but it pays for itself in preventing your sunglasses from needless damage.
• Many, many sunglasses are made by the same company: Luxottica. I’m not kidding. Luxottica makes sunglasses for brands such as Oakley, Oliver Peoples, Prada, Persol, Revo, Chanel, Vogue, Burberry, Ralph Lauren, Ferragamo, Versace, Brooks Brothers, and many, many more. Most importantly, Luxottica owns Ray-Ban. What this means is that these glasses all tend to be of somewhat equal quality, and a $100 pair of Ray-Bans may be very much equally good as a pair of expensive Versace sunglasses, simply without the branding and frame style. This is not to imply they are all the exact same pair — however, it is to imply that the designer sunglasses aren’t exactly magically better.

In Closing — Some actual advice

Instead of closing this in my usual vague way, I’m going to be a little bit brave here and give some blunt opinions:

• If you want a good pair of sunglasses for a decent price, Ray-Ban is always safe, either in Aviators or Wayfarers. Aviators are always safe, pending you get a pair that fits your head. Don’t get some wild colored crap, get something in either the standard dark grey, green, or maybe a tan. Gold or gunmetal frame, or something like it. No wild colors, nothing. Keep it masculine.
• If you want a pair of Wayfarers, keep them in black, unless you’re intentionally trying to make a statement. Black goes with everything. Red, maybe. Don’t go for plaid.
• Same for Clubmasters. Black. In this case, never go for another color, unless it is maybe a tortoiseshell.
• If you don’t like Ray-Ban, go for Oliver Peoples, which is a lot more expensive but a bit more sexy. Their variations on the basics are also much more reasonable.
• Never buy anything cheap from places like Urban Outfitters.
• Your typical man really needs only one pair of well fitted nice quality sunglasses. Anything more than that is nice, but not necessary. Do not feel necessarily left out of some club if you only have one pair — just invest in a good pair and stick with them until they disintegrate on your face.

Here in the West, we have an absolute fetish for new things. New computers, new cars, new clothes, new houses, new haircuts, new everything- we obsess over getting what is the “best” or the “latest”, often to the chagrin of our own wallets and the actual quality of that which we purchase. It’s time we stopped that. In certain contexts and in certain markets, buying used makes leagues more sense than buying new, and it can not only be cheaper and safer, but it can also be remarkably stylish, if done correctly.

Buying Used: The Basics

Before I launch into explaining what you should likely buy used, let me explain (in the simplest terms I can muster) what “buying used” really is.

Everything you buy has worth. When I buy a T-shirt for $10, for example, I am spending $10 for the entirety of the shirt itself- the actual materials, the construction, and even things like the brand. However, more importantly, for most items, I’m often paying for the newness of the item itself- that is, I’m paying a premium for the ability to purchase the t-shirt in original packaging or from the original store, with all the original labels intact. I’m paying for the right to be the first (and implicitly, only) owner of the item, and to have it for the longest amount of time it will hold up.

However, there’s a caveat to that purchase: when you buy virtually anything, it instantly depreciates. You read that correctly: your purchase of virtually anything is subject to the invisible force of depreciation, which makes the value of the item you just purchased shoot down by a large percentage. In more familiar terms to most readers, this is precisely why when you purchase a new video game at $60, you often cannot sell it back to the store or to another gamer for more than about $50 or $40: you, for all intents and purposes, paid $20 to be the first owner and to have the first crack at that particular copy of the game.

This is all a bit confusing, so let me simplify things: buying used allows you to avoid this kind of unfair price gouging. The nice thing about buying used is, if done right, it can be an effective tool to save money and still purchase a quality product. If you are buying a product that you know will last a long time and has inherent worth, by purchasing it used, you can often avoid this unfair trend of price inflation and get it for a much more reasonable price. It’s that simple!

So what should I buy used?

Simply put, the best things to buy used are things you know have inherent worth that will last.

The best possible example I can give of a good value when buying used is to buy a used car. Most cars are made to last much longer than their owners typically keep them- whereas many Americans will replace their car every 3-5 years, a good quality vehicle will be in fine working condition for much longer. Even in this terrible economy, many Americans will be as ridiculous as to replace their vehicles after one or two years, which essentially floods the market with relatively new, barely used vehicles at prices much lower than they were purchased at.

Purchasing these vehicles is a phenomenal deal. Most people know the unfortunate truth about buying a vehicle new- the second you drive it off the lot, it depreciates excessively, and you lose lots of money merely for the right to have a new car and to enjoy the new car smell thereof. When you purchase these vehicles used, however, you entirely subvert this entire system- you get the exact same vehicle, more or less in the same condition (pending the previous owner wasn’t a slob), and at a price much much cheaper than you would have ever gotten new. You would be surprised at the pricing disparity for vehicles like this- for example, just from a bit of research, I’ve been able to easily find examples of extremely expensive car 2009 models that begin at over 80,000 USD used that- after one year- are now retailing at approximately 40,000 USD. That’s an incredible discount, especially for something still relatively new.

Another example, more pertinent to Well Cultured, is clothing. While it seems hard to believe, some articles of clothing are much more worth their price when used, even though they can be sometimes slightly worn down. In the world of menswear, some of the more expensive staples- shoes, belts, and even some suits- last a long time, and are often extremely expensive to purchase new, but can be found in copious amounts used, typically in great condition, and for up to 50% off the retail price. Naturally, just like in the world of cars, lemons do exist- it’s easy to get burned with subpar or even entirely fake clothing- but you would be surprised how much you can find when shopping used. The best thing about purchasing used is that you can really get some amazingly retro pieces that are legitimately retro: while many brands try to churn out “oldschool” pieces every so often, you can own an article of clothing from the real era and truly rock it, rather than trying to do so with something brand new. New slim ties reminiscent of the 50s are cool- real 50s era slim ties are awesome.

Another less thought of example is, believe it or not, DVDs and CDs. Pending you can view the quality of the DVD/CD before you make the purchase, it’s relatively easy to build up a respectable collection of music and movies by purchasing used in lieu of purchasing new. This, of course, applies to video games as well. DVDs, CDs, and Video Games are all very much subject to the same forces of intense depreciation that other items are, and pending you can buy them used in decent quality, it is often much more economically reasonable to purchase a game used rather than to waste the cash buying something used just for the $10+ privilege to remove it from its original wrapping.

The best thing for all of the above is that you’re not only getting something cheaper, but you have the opportunity to purchase classic items. For example, in the video game and DVD world, nothing quite beats oldschool titles that may no longer be printed- you can get them used. Similarly, some clothing brands and styles have since disappeared, and you can easily find them in used markets, if you search hard enough. Some articles of clothing now prohibitively expensive yet classic, like Schott Perfecto leather motorcycle jackets, can be found in excellent quality used, and often for much cheaper. The great thing about shopping used, then, is much more than simply saving money: it’s about having the opportunity to find truly classic items as well.

What should I not buy used?

This is a pretty simple answer: anything that goes bad quickly, or is under the price in which buying used becomes worth your time. Buying a t-shirt or a cheap pair of underwear, for example, is not recommended, both for hygiene and price purposes. High technology items, particularly things like video game consoles and computers, should likely be avoided, as they are usually only sold used when broken or otherwise malfunctioning.

Additionally, it should be noted that you should never purchase anything used without either having a contract with the person you are purchasing from, or the willingness to lose the money you spend. This is an important caveat to purchasing used: you can get burned, no matter how much work or research you do ahead of time. Be careful.

In closing…

This article isn’t about making you paranoid and making you become a nascent Scrooge- it’s simply about sense.

Here in America, we have a nasty habit of loving to purchase new things, and it’s truly hurting us. Re-think your attachment to “new” items- you’d be surprised at the kinds of deals and values you can find used, pending you’re willing to search and be reasonable. If anything, give it a shot!

Do you recommend buying clothes online, when you can’t try them on first? Any overall advice on shopping online, or stores where you should shop at?

I do recommend shopping online, but there are some things that will make your shopping experience easier. I’ll break this up into two topics.

First off, as for fitting and general purchasing, be very careful. As you likely well know, buying things online is one massive crapshoot, and it’s always a gamble. The first thing- above anything else- that I typically recommend is to simply know your sizes. Whenever shopping online, try to keep your measurements handy, or have something (soft measuring tape) to do it when you need to know. Typically, most bigger online stores will have “fit guides” or something of that nature, with approximated measurements available for you to compare yourself against. Even eBay posts tend to have this information.

Still, that doesn’t always help things. One thing I personally like to do is to simply Google it- this especially works with jeans. For example, if I wanted to know the fit of Raf Simons jeans, I’d simply Google “Raf Simons jeans fit“. To compare Levis 514s to 511s or something, “514 vs 511“. Fashion forums all over the internet have threads you can read up on for this sort of information.

Additionally, ALWAYS try to be covered in case what you purchase does not fit. Ensure there is a return policy, ideally one where you don’t have to pay a dime. If there isn’t, make sure you can afford to have something that doesn’t fit- that is, be willing to spend the extra cash to get something tailored or to sell it to someone else.

As for where to shop, you have plenty of options. Most mid-tier brands nowadays have online stores of their own- from J.Crew to Ralph Lauren to Armani Exchange. Most of these places sell their wares for full price, but are good to check regarding sales  from time to time. One new trend that’s developed online is the “fire sale” website like Gilt Groupe or JackThreads, which, at 12:00 every day, makes available an assortment of usually deeply discounted designer products. I tend to much prefer sites that carry a variety of brands- Yoox, Bluefly, Revolve Clothing, and even mall stores like Nordstrom fall into this category. If you want to browse a ton of stores at once, sites like ShopStyle are a good choice, though usually full priced. Amazon.com has some decent offerings as well. Whatever you do, make sure to check coupon sites like RetailMeNot for applicable coupon codes- you can easily save up to 50% or more stacking coupons if you are vigilant enough. If you really want to become an aggressive deal-hunter, make a dump e-mail account and sign up for a ton of website mailing lists- they often announce major sales.

Still, the best advice I can give you is to just browse around. You never know what you’ll find- just keep an eye out on things, stumble around the web, that sort of thing. Hope this helps!

To aid you in your shopping in 2010, I’ve decided to compile a new list for shopping advice- that is, a collection of stores you’d normally run into in an American mall, with commentary and critique to prepare you if you go shopping now or in the future. As a disclaimer, please note this is by no means comprehensive- however, I’m trying to hit the “big” stores (as in, the ones you’d see the most often in your average mall)- so the list is by no means comprehensive, but potentially helpful nonetheless.

Old Navy

The Breakdown:Old Navy is becoming increasingly popular as the economy dips, and will probably grow in popularity in 2010. Old Navy is best where it is simple- that is, the best Old Navy clothing is the basics, including t-shirts, underwear, socks, and the like. Unfortunately, like any Gap brand, Old Navy suffers from over sizing to the point of almost being ridiculous- meaning finding good fits is ironically harder than at more expensive retailers. Additionally, the brand is seemingly stuck in the fashion of years ago, re-branding old styles (baggy shorts, graphic tees, etc) that weren’t wonderful in the first place. Nonetheless, given the ridiculously cheap pricing on some decent clothing, don’t entirely ignore Old Navy- but don’t rely on it for any sort of serious outfit creation.
Recommended: Men’s Classic V-Neck Tees, $8.50/ea. A decent purchase in enough colors and basic enough to be paired with a variety of outfits.
Not Recommended: Anything close to their attempts to be a “surf-wear” brand- including but not limited to their board shorts, graphic hoodies, baggy shorts, etc.

The Gap

The Breakdown: The Gap is one of the closest things to a basic American retailer- being neither remarkably exciting nor boring, neither expensive nor cheap, the Gap seems to fill in that “middle tier” that is an increasingly small field in the fashion world. Because of this, The Gap is a mixed bag- on some occasions, their clothing is remarkably good and worth every penny, whereas other times their clothing isn’t worth the textiles they are made with. Ultimately, The Gap is a good choice for any shopping trip, just one that should be handled gingerly. Like its little brother Old Navy, The Gap should be your source for basics.
Recommended: Shawl collar cotton sweater, $69.50. Kent houndstooth clean pants, $49.99.  Fitted Aubrey plaid shirt, $34.99 (or similar flannel).
Not Recommended: While occasionally good, some Gap coats and blazers tend to be very cheap- be careful.

Banana Republic

The Breakdown: Banana Republic holds the dubious honor of being the most respectable Gap brand, as it is what one may consider a competing brand to more fashionable/expensive brands like J.Crew. Banana Republic focuses predominantly on more formal and adult clothing and suiting, which makes it a great brand for the fashion forward, though it suffers from increasingly becoming a very bland and sometimes overpriced brand. Though I used to absolutely adore and incessantly recommend this brand, I have become very cautious of the brand, especially as the sizes seem to be increasing- again, be careful.
Recommended: Tonal stripe tie, $49.50. Silk/cotton solid v-neck sweater, $59.50. Virtually anything from the Monogram Collection.
Not Recommended: Purchasing anything without trying it on. BR’s sizing has ballooned ridiculously, meaning the fit is becoming baggy and quite ugly. Tread carefully.

Express

The Breakdown: At its best, Express is a brand much akin to Banana Republic, featuring wonderful suiting and great semi-formal attire. At its worst, Express is unfortunately the progenitor of what many call stereotypical “metrosexual” wear- that is, overdesigned, horribly trashy clothing.  My advice with Express is fairly simple- if the clothing fits you well, try to buy it on sale, when it becomes arguably much more worth the money (Express is often slightly more expensive than it is worth). Express sale racks are treasure troves. Be warned, however- Express shirts often contain spandex, which requires serious ironing.
Recommended: Fitted 1MX Shirt, $49.50. MK2 Fitted Stretch Cotton Military Shirt, $59.50.
Not Recommended: Tees, some polos, outerwear, and anything with the word “Graphic” in the title.

J.Crew

The Breakdown: When Banana Republic and I had a nasty break-up, I turned to J.Crew, which has now gone from pretty good to absolutely awesome (arguably due to some nice GQ coverage). J.Crew is the absolute bomb when it comes to suiting, formal wear, and even some casual wear- and though they still suffer sometimes from offering somewhat bland offerings, J.Crew has (in my mind) drastically improved their offerings across  the board. The one thing that may limit them is simply their offerings in their stores- some physical stores are loaded with goodies, whereas others seem sparse and somewhat boring.
Recommended: Red Wing Iron Ranger boots, $298. ANYTHING from the Suiting section. Secret Wash button-down shirt in faded gingham, $59.50. Cotton-cashmere cardigan, $69.50.
Not Recommended: Avoid their baggier fare and their shorts- neither tend to be particularly flattering.

American Apparel

The Breakdown: 50% good quality basics, 50% insane hipster trash. American Apparel does the very basics very well- it’s incredibly difficult to beat the quality of their shirts, henleys, and the like. However, American Apparel has a hipster dark side, and it makes them come out with some of the stupidest stuff you’ve ever seen. You might even feel awkward walking into a store- but trust me, there’s good stuff inside, hidden behind all of the irony.
Recommended: 2456 Fine Jersey Short Sleeve V-Neck, $19. T457 Baby Thermal Long Sleeve Henley, $24.
Not Recommended: If you think the person behind the counter would wear it, do not buy it.

Abercrombie & Fitch

The Breakdown: Most in the US have heard of Abercrombie & Fitch, the big California-slash-Miami retailer that sells the “Abercrombie” look- tight muscle tees, baggy pants, and generally “beach” clothing. As it was last year, and will be this year, Abercrombie is tired, and it is seemingly having trouble with sales given the company’s lack of new material, not to mention the economy impoverishing a large percentage of Abercrombie’s consumer base. I should be paid for the number of times I have entered this smelly store for this website.
Recommended: Simmons Pond (Military shirt in green drab), $50. The Redfield Wax Jacket, $149.50.
Not Recommended: Their swimwear, graphic tees, polos, faded jeans, sandals, etc etc.

American Eagle

The Breakdown: A horrible retailer seemingly trying to emulate Abercrombie & Fitch that nonetheless can come out with some absolutely positively decent pieces at random with no prior warning, sending all of us fashion kids home to crawl in our closets and shudder, wondering if our taste has gone poor. American Eagle’s shirt and “basics” offerings are decent at best- the quality is what one might expect at the price point: generally equal to the Gap or a similar brand. That being said, go inside, but expect one good thing out of 100 bad things, unless you’re quite lenient.
Recommended: AE Classic Wingtip, $59.50. Eagle Premium Striped Shirt, $49.50. AE Vintage Cabin Boot, $89.50. Anything basic, pending it fits well.
Not Recommended: Anything not very basic.

Armani Exhange

The Breakdown: Once a really Eurotrash brand. Still a really Eurotrash brand. Occasionally decent, but otherwise very outlandish and sometimes absolutely ridiculous. Armani Exchange seemingly dives into strange self-created fashion trends independent of any sort of normal fashion trends- not entirely a bad thing by any means, but certainly strange. Expect a lot of things one might expect a strange clubgoer to wear. Not entirely a store you ever need to visit to be fashionable, but okay for a look.
Recommended: Textured Stripe Shirt, $79 (the closest thing I could find to a basic article of clothing, though admittedly overpriced).
Not Recommended: Pretty much everything the store carries.

Kenneth Cole

The Breakdown: Kenneth Cole is really best known for their shoe offerings, but they also tend to have some pretty decent clothing as well, depending on your style and taste. I like to consider Kenneth Cole the store to find “city fashion” in- that is, darker colors, slimmer cuts, more adult fare, and the like. Kenneth Cole is not entirely a perfect brand by any means- I personally find some of their clothing and shoes to be somewhat cheap and boring, though some articles of clothing are pretty nice.
Recommended: Two-Button Hacking Notch Jacket, $198. Some shoe offerings.
Not Recommended: Most shoe offerings- avoid anything with a square toe, fake design, or strange look.

Guess

The Breakdown: Really, Guess is a jeans brand, just one that has (like many others) expanded out. Like Armani, however, they tend to try to overdesign their clothing, which can result in some truly atrocious designs best left for those odd enough to purchase them. Guess jeans are a mixed bag, at least so far as I have seen- though many love them for their supposed quality and texture, many find them to be a little bit too expensive for their worth as well as overdone- it’s really a personal preference thing. Stick to Guess’ jeans and similar offerings, which seem to be safer and better quality overall.
Recommended: If it fits you well and you like the slightly more rock style, Guess Denim.
Not Recommended: With only a few exceptions, everything else.

Buckle

The Breakdown: Buckle is an amalgamation of “surf” and “skater” brands- meaning, as you might imagine, the store is quickly aging in the world of fashion. While advancing somewhat and picking up on new trends, the brand nonetheless  is still stuck in the mid-’00s, a problem they seem unlikely to solve. As a general rule, it’s unlikely you will find much here that’s distinctly fashionable. Honestly, I predict Buckle will eventually (but slowly) fade away in the next 10 years unless the brand makes a large jump towards something more stylish- I highly doubt that many people will want surf/skate brands as much as they do now.
Recommended: I have absolutely no idea.
Not Recommended: Everything.

Urban Outfitters

The Breakdown: Much like Buckle, UO is an amalgamation of different brands- except in this case, UO is a little bit more toward the current fashion trends. UO balances the precarious line between normal clothing and American Apparel-esque hipster crap. With that being said, I tend to smile on UO more than I frown, though admittedly some of their clothing is absolutely horrible. When shopping at UO, try to avoid going for the super-trendy and effeminate gear they sometimes try to sell- look for their better deals, which are the great fitting shirts, coats, and sometimes pants. UO also carries a wonderful selection of skinny Levis, if they fit you well.
Recommended: BDG Professor Shawl Collar Cardigan, $48. Levis 511 Skinny Trouser, $54.
Not Recommended: Most of their “experimental” clothing, including their very baggy sweaters/cardigans, their super-skinny oddly fitting pants, and the like.

Ralph Lauren (Polo Ralph Lauren, Ralph Lauren Black, etc)

The Breakdown: Ralph Lauren continues to be the quintessential American brand- polo shirts, sporty clothing, the works. Really, Ralph Lauren doesn’t change much from year to year- their style remains the same, and though they often change their offerings, the vast majority of it is still as sporty, somewhat preppy, and generally well made as ever.
Recommended: Really, most of everything- the polos, the shirts, the pants, etc- pending it fits well and is somewhat classic.
Not Recommended: Most of anything in Ralph Lauren’s cheaper lines such as “Lauren” and “American Living”, which are not as well made and generally somewhat uglier.

Brooks Brothers

The Breakdown: Brooks is more of your grandfather’s suiting store than your father’s- it’s that old. That being said, Brooks does suiting well- they are, in my opinion, the upper tier of suiting, pending you can tailor them after purchase. Thom Brown’s work with Brooks- the Black Fleece line- is even better. That being said, Brooks is oldschool to a fault, a fact which means 95% of their clothing is anything but trendy, and often is aimed more towards older working men than you. While the quality is superior (and, in my opinion, worth the price), it’s sometimes hard to find what you’re looking for.
Recommended: Anything reasonable in the Black Fleece line. Most suiting, pending it fits right.
Not Recommended: Brooks’ ascots, frumpy sweaters, etc.

If you haven’t noticed from the incessant use of the phrases “now more than ever” and “affordable” in commercials and on the news, we here in the US (and, along with us, many Western companies) are in a recession that some might call an outright depression. This has, of course, hit the fashion industry pretty hard- and it’s also made affording any sort of fashion incredibly hard. In a world like this, it’s very hard to really find a way to find and afford good fashion- so, I’m going to explain how to do it.

Finding Affordable Clothing

Surprisingly, very few companies have had SERIOUS issues with the recession we’re currently in- that is to say, no-one’s really “gone under”, for lack of a better term. What has happened, however, is that many brands are beginning to scale back their more experimental clothing to rather rely on the tried and true- something that, while somewhat depressing in one sense, is also a boon in the other. Clothiers like J.Crew are now beginning to increasingly focus on key pieces like good quality denim, and even the infamously ridiculous Armani Exchange appears to be noticeably becoming more conservative with their new Fall clothing. It’s a fun world, but in some ways, a difficult one.

The first issue is merely finding affordable clothing. Resist the urge to go to Wal*Mart and buy all of your clothing there- while it seems tempting to go to the cheapest place imaginable to buy clothing, it rarely works out well for you in the long run. Rather, the ideal goal is to simply try to find clothing that costs exactly what it is worth- what we might consider our ideal 1:1 ratio- or clothing you can get on a discount.

The key to finding clothing with that “ideal 1:1 ratio” of cost/worth is to simply investigate brands. While designer does not equal quality, the inverse does not apply- non-designer does not instantly mean cheap quality bargain. Rather, look for labels that do what they do well and sell the stuff for reasonable prices. For example, the brand True Religion (a very very high end jeans brand) may seem like they do their jeans well, but with a staggering $300 price tag, they do not become worth their weight. However, despite the rather hefty ~$90 price tag on a pair of J.Crew jeans, these become much more reasonable, pending you get a nice pair- for example, a nice pair of slim fitting dark wash J.Crew jeans will last for years. Though it may seem a little hard to put down $50-$75 on a polo from Ralph Lauren or Lacoste, both companies make clothing that lasts for years- making the price tag much more acceptable.

Still, there is nothing wrong with buying cheaper brands if you can verify the quality. Despite my hatred for the brand as a whole, Old Navy and the Gap are good places to find the absolute basics like t-shirts and undershirts- they may not be name brand, but they function (and hold up) largely the same. Similarly, there is no major sin in going to Target and purchasing some cheap Converse shoes- given their decent construction and rather cheap price, there’s nothing wrong with “going cheap” with them. The key here is to check quality, regardless of the price.

Still, things can be too expensive, which is why this next idea is especially pertinent nowadays: Hit thrift stores and eBay. While it seems silly to buy secondhand clothing, a surprising number of fashionable people do it. As the economy continues to suffer, spoiled women and man-children begin to have to sell off their overpriced clothing- and you can take advantage of their stupidity. On eBay especially, brand names are plentiful- and so long as the seller is legitimate, you can get some absolutely stellar buys for very cheap. So long as you know the brand well enough to know the fit, or get to try your purchase on, there’s no shame in purchasing used.

Knowing when and how to Buy

Another key skill in this economy is merely knowing when and how to buy.

First off, know when sales and discounts apply, and take advantage of them. At the end of any given season, stores try to get rid of their old stock to add new stock- obviously, this is a good time to swoop in and buy these relatively new fashions for very cheap. Similarly, some stores heavily discount their clothing based on random days, holidays, or just general preferences- try to learn what you can about the sales around you. For example, the back-to-school season is often slightly more expensive than immediately after, as a lot of retailers heavily stock up for the (presumed) impending rush of mothers buying their children clothing. Once this rush ends, even adult sizes are sometimes lowered.

Second off, don’t be afraid to use coupons. I’m quite serious here- remember, fashion is about the clothing itself, not paying full price. Check various websites and, if you have the time, use a trashy e-mail and sign up for a bunch of mailing lists. Join Gilt Groupe and similar discounting websites and have them send sale information to you- some sites will send coupons, others sales, but it all works out well.

Knowing What to Buy

This is a bit more theoretical, but quite honestly, arguably the most important: buy long lasting, versatile items.

It may seem tempting to buy into the latest fly-by-night fad- but it doesn’t do well for your wallet. Articles of clothing like skinny jeans and strange colored cardigans may be in at the moment in some circles, but their popularity will eventually fade into obscurity- but basic bluejeans, a good suit, and a nice crisp white shirt will not. Frankly, even if you have a limitless wallet, there’s no point in buying silly trends at this point. A good rule of thumb is to buy things that you genuinely know you’d be able to wear 10 years down the road- while that’s a big number, it keeps you focused on buying only things that really will work now and in the future.

This rule, in its fullest extent, can even affect the way you buy colors: don’t buy a neon green when a black will be much more versatile in the long run. This may seem “boring”, but this really enables you to optimize your wardrobe in a way many people are unable to do: instead of having 300 items of limited use, you can constrain yourself to 30 items of versatility- and you can spend more on them.

In Closing…

In closing, in somewhat of an ironic sense despite the topic of this article, don’t be paranoid of the economy.

There have been a lot of television commercials, news articles, and other media sources making many people in the US (and, again, other countries) very arbitrarily nervous about money for largely no reason. This isn’t entirely terrible (it helps people re-evaluate their financial choices), but it has bad consequences: it leads many people to pointlessly buy clothes that are cheap and of poor quality, really not looking into the true economy of fashion.

By all means, feel free to shop. Feel free to find clothing you like. Still, as you do so, keep worth in your head, and really, avoid being cheap with your money or extravagant with your choices- there’s a happy middle ground.

Let’s face it, most of us have a few things we erroneously believe for one thing or another- whether we really believe Santa Claus exists or if we believe that we’re the next thing to Adonis in the bed. This applies to fashion as well- there are a surprising number of people who believe in largely antiquated/childish misconceptions of “fashion”, only to limit (or hurt) themselves in the long run. These are some of those misconceptions.

Misconception: T-Shirts are Awesome

The reality here is that the older you get, if you can, the less you should wear traditional t-shirts. Many fashion writers believe that graphic t-shirts are absolute no-nos- and I’m inclined to agree. As a general rule, try to avoid just wearing a plain t-shirt- and if you must, make sure it’s a v-neck. Wearing a plain colored crew neck t-shirt without layering or otherwise giving it something to do is rather bland, and it often detracts from an outfit (and makes you look childish).

Misconception: There are “Dress Clothes” and “Casual Clothes”

While there are exceptions to this rule, if your clothing isn’t doing double duty, you’re limiting yourself too much. Many guys have a bad habit of trying to buy clothes exclusively for “dressy” occasions and clothes for “casual” occasions- and it’s expensive, excessive, and generally boring. Some of the traditional basics, such as khaki trousers, crisp white button-downs, belts, (some kinds of) dress shoes, and even some vests can all be worn both casually and formally- it all depends on the combination.

Misconception: The Skinnier, the Better

This misconception generally spawns from those with a little bit of fashion knowledge who often get far too wrapped up in the modeling industry. Despite what may be shown at fashion shows, you should not try to starve yourself to be waifish in stature- it looks unattractive. The “Dior Homme” look of old has infected the rest of the fashion industry, but that doesn’t mean you should follow it: keep yourself fit, fashionable, and at a masculine size.

Misconception: “Manly” Colors

Darker, more subdued colors are sold en masse in the men’s fashion industry for a reason: a lot of guys are, for the lack of a better phrase, afraid of color. Indeed, you should stick to traditional colors like dark grays, blues, browns, and the like- but spice up such outfits with bursts of bright, vibrant color. Avoid neon-colored accessories or horrible looking easter-egg-ish pants, but be willing to experiment with your clothing and pick colors that may seem strange: play around with lighter pinks, purples, greens, blues, and the like.

Misconception: Tennis Shoes are the most comfortable/versatile shoes

No. Just no. The right dress shoes can actually be leagues more comfortable than any pair of tennis shoes you may own- and they’ll be infinitely more stylish. Do not, under any circumstances, walk around in running/fitness shoes under the presumption they will be more comfortable for everyday wear: running shoes (as well as tennis shoes, basketball shoes, etc) are made for a certain sport/activity, and should be regulated to that activity exclusively if at all possible. Find stylish and slightly casual leather shoes, or nice fashion-forward “fashion sneakers” like Adidas Sambas.

Misconception: “No-Iron”/Elastic clothes are superior

From my (and many other people’s) experience, “No-Iron” shirts, pants, and the like rarely actually are indeed “No-Iron”, and they often are worse than if you had simply purchased the “normal” variety. Similarly, many pants manufacturers are advertising what are essentially hidden elastic waistbands in pants, which allegedly fit better- which, as you can imagine, look stupid unless you’re the right size anyway.

Misconception: The more expensive, the better

This is very, very wrong. While this does apply in certain circumstances (established brands like Ralph Lauren are, while incredibly expensive, generally made very well), the vast majority of extremely high end expensive brands are little better than what you can find in your average department store. While it may seem alluring to purchase $300 jeans, the price includes neither style nor a good fit, and many who do purchase them artificially hype them merely to feel better about themselves. For example, though it may be tempting to drop the aforementioned $300 on a pair of True Religion jeans, you’d probably be much more intelligent to buy an $100 pair from somewhere like J.Crew — the label might not be as fancy, but the quality is ultimately going to be around the same. Be a savvy shopper: consider fit, quality and style first, brand second.

Misconception: Buy cheap!

This is something I have a hard time breaking myself of, but it’s 100% true: most people like to think that buying cheap (and somehow getting a “better deal” out of stores) is better. It is not. It may seem tempting to pop into an extremely low priced bargain joint (let’s say Old Navy) and buy something like jeans (which are about $30), but it doesn’t mean you’re getting anything better: often, the quality is incredibly shoddy, poorly designed, or just generally not worth your time. It is often better to bite the bullet and buy something more expensive ($50-$100) that will last longer, look better, and generally be the better deal. Don’t be suckered in by small numbers!

Misconception: Baggy is Comfortable

Wrong. Though it may be tempting to buy a shirt that’s as baggy as a woman’s dress, don’t do it: it’s horrible looking and often makes you look childish, small, and foolish. This is why I often obsess over tailoring on this website: the idea is to get things as fitted to your body as possible. Buy jeans that perfectly fit you like a glove: don’t buy something you have to squeeze yourself into, but simultaneously, don’t buy something you could use as a parachute. Often, something that fits you just right will feel leagues better.

Misconception: Square-toed shoes are “Modern”

Absolutely not. Though some people like them, I (and many of my fashion-savvy colleagues) hate them with a passion. Though there are some exceptions, most squared-off shoes are tacky (failed) attempts at being “modern” and “unique”- but all they really do is make your feet look awkward and slightly large.

Misconception: Accessories are for Women

This is slightly true and slightly false. Do not overdo accessories: it will indeed make you look feminine. However, there’s nothing more masculine than a subdued yet stylish ring, watch, bracelet, set of cufflinks, or necklace.

As a 23 year old entering a new professional job I intend to take advantage of the cheap Shenzhen tailors on my way through Hong Kong, what basics should I get made, colours, fits etc.? (I was thinking three suits, 5-8 shirts, a blazer and 2 overcoats)

You’re on the right track, to be certain.

Like I’ve mentioned before on here (incessantly), always have something conservative as a backup. You can almost never go wrong with having a simple black suit tailored to fit you perfectly- a black suit can be work for business, for formal occasions, and even casually, pending you do so correctly. Similarly, dark blue suits and darker gray suits are almost always usable in both the business and private world.

So far as fits and general cuts are concerned, avoid anything too modern (like thin lapel suits). While they are in style now, I’m getting the creeping suspicion they will fall out of fashion very soon. For the suit itself, you should probably stick to suits with notch lapels and a single vent, which is pretty standard with most suits. So far as the pants are concerned, make damn sure they aren’t too baggy- keep them well fitted to your leg, and obviously, make sure there are no pleats.

If I were you, so far as suits are concerned, I’d go for two conservative suits and one more ostentatious suit, which would cover your bases pretty damn well. For example, for the first two, I’d go for one in black and one in charcoal or navy, notch lapel, single or double vent, very simple with flat front trousers. For the more ostentatious, I’d go for a color you don’t have (let’s say a charcoal) with pinstriping or some other style to it- maybe a peak lapel, just something to differentiate it. Of course, regardless of the way they look, get them tailored to perfection.

As for the shirts, go for at least two in white, the remainder in simple colors that match the suits. Try out some french cuff shirts- french cuffs, in my opinion, are wonderfully stylish, pending you are willing to wear cufflinks (and get the suits tailored to work with the french cuffs- the sleeves are usually made a teensy bit shorter to show the cuff). Depending on your body shape and size, experiment with point collars and spread collars. Undoubtedly, you should keep the color/style of tie you plan to wear with the shirt in mind.

As for the overcoats and blazers, that’s really where you can have fun. If you do get a blazer, you can’t go wrong with a nice navy Polo Ralph Lauren-style preppy blazer, or maybe a casual black or brown blazer to wear around. For the overcoats, topcoats are always advantageous (stick to black, gray, or brown- white is hard to deal with/to clean).

In any case, have a ball. If you shop in the right locations, you’ll be able to get plenty of help. Find photos you like and carry them with you. Try on everything. By the time you’re done, you’ll have one hell of a wardrobe.