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To aid you in your shopping in 2010, I’ve decided to compile a new list for shopping advice- that is, a collection of stores you’d normally run into in an American mall, with commentary and critique to prepare you if you go shopping now or in the future. As a disclaimer, please note this is by no means comprehensive- however, I’m trying to hit the “big” stores (as in, the ones you’d see the most often in your average mall)- so the list is by no means comprehensive, but potentially helpful nonetheless.

Old Navy

The Breakdown:Old Navy is becoming increasingly popular as the economy dips, and will probably grow in popularity in 2010. Old Navy is best where it is simple- that is, the best Old Navy clothing is the basics, including t-shirts, underwear, socks, and the like. Unfortunately, like any Gap brand, Old Navy suffers from over sizing to the point of almost being ridiculous- meaning finding good fits is ironically harder than at more expensive retailers. Additionally, the brand is seemingly stuck in the fashion of years ago, re-branding old styles (baggy shorts, graphic tees, etc) that weren’t wonderful in the first place. Nonetheless, given the ridiculously cheap pricing on some decent clothing, don’t entirely ignore Old Navy- but don’t rely on it for any sort of serious outfit creation.
Recommended: Men’s Classic V-Neck Tees, $8.50/ea. A decent purchase in enough colors and basic enough to be paired with a variety of outfits.
Not Recommended: Anything close to their attempts to be a “surf-wear” brand- including but not limited to their board shorts, graphic hoodies, baggy shorts, etc.

The Gap

The Breakdown: The Gap is one of the closest things to a basic American retailer- being neither remarkably exciting nor boring, neither expensive nor cheap, the Gap seems to fill in that “middle tier” that is an increasingly small field in the fashion world. Because of this, The Gap is a mixed bag- on some occasions, their clothing is remarkably good and worth every penny, whereas other times their clothing isn’t worth the textiles they are made with. Ultimately, The Gap is a good choice for any shopping trip, just one that should be handled gingerly. Like its little brother Old Navy, The Gap should be your source for basics.
Recommended: Shawl collar cotton sweater, $69.50. Kent houndstooth clean pants, $49.99.  Fitted Aubrey plaid shirt, $34.99 (or similar flannel).
Not Recommended: While occasionally good, some Gap coats and blazers tend to be very cheap- be careful.

Banana Republic

The Breakdown: Banana Republic holds the dubious honor of being the most respectable Gap brand, as it is what one may consider a competing brand to more fashionable/expensive brands like J.Crew. Banana Republic focuses predominantly on more formal and adult clothing and suiting, which makes it a great brand for the fashion forward, though it suffers from increasingly becoming a very bland and sometimes overpriced brand. Though I used to absolutely adore and incessantly recommend this brand, I have become very cautious of the brand, especially as the sizes seem to be increasing- again, be careful.
Recommended: Tonal stripe tie, $49.50. Silk/cotton solid v-neck sweater, $59.50. Virtually anything from the Monogram Collection.
Not Recommended: Purchasing anything without trying it on. BR’s sizing has ballooned ridiculously, meaning the fit is becoming baggy and quite ugly. Tread carefully.

Express

The Breakdown: At its best, Express is a brand much akin to Banana Republic, featuring wonderful suiting and great semi-formal attire. At its worst, Express is unfortunately the progenitor of what many call stereotypical “metrosexual” wear- that is, overdesigned, horribly trashy clothing.  My advice with Express is fairly simple- if the clothing fits you well, try to buy it on sale, when it becomes arguably much more worth the money (Express is often slightly more expensive than it is worth). Express sale racks are treasure troves. Be warned, however- Express shirts often contain spandex, which requires serious ironing.
Recommended: Fitted 1MX Shirt, $49.50. MK2 Fitted Stretch Cotton Military Shirt, $59.50.
Not Recommended: Tees, some polos, outerwear, and anything with the word “Graphic” in the title.

J.Crew

The Breakdown: When Banana Republic and I had a nasty break-up, I turned to J.Crew, which has now gone from pretty good to absolutely awesome (arguably due to some nice GQ coverage). J.Crew is the absolute bomb when it comes to suiting, formal wear, and even some casual wear- and though they still suffer sometimes from offering somewhat bland offerings, J.Crew has (in my mind) drastically improved their offerings across  the board. The one thing that may limit them is simply their offerings in their stores- some physical stores are loaded with goodies, whereas others seem sparse and somewhat boring.
Recommended: Red Wing Iron Ranger boots, $298. ANYTHING from the Suiting section. Secret Wash button-down shirt in faded gingham, $59.50. Cotton-cashmere cardigan, $69.50.
Not Recommended: Avoid their baggier fare and their shorts- neither tend to be particularly flattering.

American Apparel

The Breakdown: 50% good quality basics, 50% insane hipster trash. American Apparel does the very basics very well- it’s incredibly difficult to beat the quality of their shirts, henleys, and the like. However, American Apparel has a hipster dark side, and it makes them come out with some of the stupidest stuff you’ve ever seen. You might even feel awkward walking into a store- but trust me, there’s good stuff inside, hidden behind all of the irony.
Recommended: 2456 Fine Jersey Short Sleeve V-Neck, $19. T457 Baby Thermal Long Sleeve Henley, $24.
Not Recommended: If you think the person behind the counter would wear it, do not buy it.

Abercrombie & Fitch

The Breakdown: Most in the US have heard of Abercrombie & Fitch, the big California-slash-Miami retailer that sells the “Abercrombie” look- tight muscle tees, baggy pants, and generally “beach” clothing. As it was last year, and will be this year, Abercrombie is tired, and it is seemingly having trouble with sales given the company’s lack of new material, not to mention the economy impoverishing a large percentage of Abercrombie’s consumer base. I should be paid for the number of times I have entered this smelly store for this website.
Recommended: Simmons Pond (Military shirt in green drab), $50. The Redfield Wax Jacket, $149.50.
Not Recommended: Their swimwear, graphic tees, polos, faded jeans, sandals, etc etc.

American Eagle

The Breakdown: A horrible retailer seemingly trying to emulate Abercrombie & Fitch that nonetheless can come out with some absolutely positively decent pieces at random with no prior warning, sending all of us fashion kids home to crawl in our closets and shudder, wondering if our taste has gone poor. American Eagle’s shirt and “basics” offerings are decent at best- the quality is what one might expect at the price point: generally equal to the Gap or a similar brand. That being said, go inside, but expect one good thing out of 100 bad things, unless you’re quite lenient.
Recommended: AE Classic Wingtip, $59.50. Eagle Premium Striped Shirt, $49.50. AE Vintage Cabin Boot, $89.50. Anything basic, pending it fits well.
Not Recommended: Anything not very basic.

Armani Exhange

The Breakdown: Once a really Eurotrash brand. Still a really Eurotrash brand. Occasionally decent, but otherwise very outlandish and sometimes absolutely ridiculous. Armani Exchange seemingly dives into strange self-created fashion trends independent of any sort of normal fashion trends- not entirely a bad thing by any means, but certainly strange. Expect a lot of things one might expect a strange clubgoer to wear. Not entirely a store you ever need to visit to be fashionable, but okay for a look.
Recommended: Textured Stripe Shirt, $79 (the closest thing I could find to a basic article of clothing, though admittedly overpriced).
Not Recommended: Pretty much everything the store carries.

Kenneth Cole

The Breakdown: Kenneth Cole is really best known for their shoe offerings, but they also tend to have some pretty decent clothing as well, depending on your style and taste. I like to consider Kenneth Cole the store to find “city fashion” in- that is, darker colors, slimmer cuts, more adult fare, and the like. Kenneth Cole is not entirely a perfect brand by any means- I personally find some of their clothing and shoes to be somewhat cheap and boring, though some articles of clothing are pretty nice.
Recommended: Two-Button Hacking Notch Jacket, $198. Some shoe offerings.
Not Recommended: Most shoe offerings- avoid anything with a square toe, fake design, or strange look.

Guess

The Breakdown: Really, Guess is a jeans brand, just one that has (like many others) expanded out. Like Armani, however, they tend to try to overdesign their clothing, which can result in some truly atrocious designs best left for those odd enough to purchase them. Guess jeans are a mixed bag, at least so far as I have seen- though many love them for their supposed quality and texture, many find them to be a little bit too expensive for their worth as well as overdone- it’s really a personal preference thing. Stick to Guess’ jeans and similar offerings, which seem to be safer and better quality overall.
Recommended: If it fits you well and you like the slightly more rock style, Guess Denim.
Not Recommended: With only a few exceptions, everything else.

Buckle

The Breakdown: Buckle is an amalgamation of “surf” and “skater” brands- meaning, as you might imagine, the store is quickly aging in the world of fashion. While advancing somewhat and picking up on new trends, the brand nonetheless  is still stuck in the mid-’00s, a problem they seem unlikely to solve. As a general rule, it’s unlikely you will find much here that’s distinctly fashionable. Honestly, I predict Buckle will eventually (but slowly) fade away in the next 10 years unless the brand makes a large jump towards something more stylish- I highly doubt that many people will want surf/skate brands as much as they do now.
Recommended: I have absolutely no idea.
Not Recommended: Everything.

Urban Outfitters

The Breakdown: Much like Buckle, UO is an amalgamation of different brands- except in this case, UO is a little bit more toward the current fashion trends. UO balances the precarious line between normal clothing and American Apparel-esque hipster crap. With that being said, I tend to smile on UO more than I frown, though admittedly some of their clothing is absolutely horrible. When shopping at UO, try to avoid going for the super-trendy and effeminate gear they sometimes try to sell- look for their better deals, which are the great fitting shirts, coats, and sometimes pants. UO also carries a wonderful selection of skinny Levis, if they fit you well.
Recommended: BDG Professor Shawl Collar Cardigan, $48. Levis 511 Skinny Trouser, $54.
Not Recommended: Most of their “experimental” clothing, including their very baggy sweaters/cardigans, their super-skinny oddly fitting pants, and the like.

Ralph Lauren (Polo Ralph Lauren, Ralph Lauren Black, etc)

The Breakdown: Ralph Lauren continues to be the quintessential American brand- polo shirts, sporty clothing, the works. Really, Ralph Lauren doesn’t change much from year to year- their style remains the same, and though they often change their offerings, the vast majority of it is still as sporty, somewhat preppy, and generally well made as ever.
Recommended: Really, most of everything- the polos, the shirts, the pants, etc- pending it fits well and is somewhat classic.
Not Recommended: Most of anything in Ralph Lauren’s cheaper lines such as “Lauren” and “American Living”, which are not as well made and generally somewhat uglier.

Brooks Brothers

The Breakdown: Brooks is more of your grandfather’s suiting store than your father’s- it’s that old. That being said, Brooks does suiting well- they are, in my opinion, the upper tier of suiting, pending you can tailor them after purchase. Thom Brown’s work with Brooks- the Black Fleece line- is even better. That being said, Brooks is oldschool to a fault, a fact which means 95% of their clothing is anything but trendy, and often is aimed more towards older working men than you. While the quality is superior (and, in my opinion, worth the price), it’s sometimes hard to find what you’re looking for.
Recommended: Anything reasonable in the Black Fleece line. Most suiting, pending it fits right.
Not Recommended: Brooks’ ascots, frumpy sweaters, etc.

Spring 2009 is a pretty big year for fashion- with design becoming more prevalent than ever and the economy forcing designers to think practical, some really interesting changes have been made- but some companies refuse to change. With no further adieu, with the assistance of our female contributor Alexandra, I’m going to dig in and give you my personal opinions on these new trends- and what to buy this season.

J.Crew seems to be creeping toward a strange Ralph Lauren-style dichotomy – a huge gap between an absolutely outstanding suiting section and a somewhat mediocre preppy section. J.Crew is experimenting more and more with seersucker, twill, and similar fabrics, leaving a lot of their casualwear looking very light and airy- but admittedly with a somewhat slack feeling. Of course, true to the J.Crew name, everything is of excellent quality, so if one were to experiment with these styles you can’t go wrong- but I can’t shake the impression that everything is just a little TOO bland and, outside of the materials, the cuts are a bit too simplistic. Don’t get me wrong, though- the J.Crew offering in the formal department (from their suits to their dress shirts) is absolutely phenomenal.

A Girl’s Opinion: J. Crew has found a system that works well for them: closet staples with small bursts of flare. If bought in large amounts, J Crew clothing can easily seem overpriced; however, if you buy wardrobe essentials and maybe have the occasional splurge on something new and different, it’s much easier to handle. This season’s new additions are no exceptions.

Express is an emerging like that I’m beginning to love more and more, particularly for their great collection of well tailored dress shirts, ties, accessories, and about everything in between. Unfortunately, much like J.Crew, their casualwear feels awkward and misplaced- but unlike J.Crew, it’s not about cut, but about overstyling. Express t-shirts and, in some cases, pants/coats are incredibly overstyled and come off as flamboyant(ly gay), to the point where much of it is unwearable on a heterosexual male. Nonetheless, given recent sales that have gone after Christmas, you may not find a better place to find great dress pants, casual/semi-formal dress shirts, and accessories.

A Girl’s Opinion: I was rather underwhelmed by Express. They normally have nice clothes in a good selection of colors, but their new pieces seemed a bit tacky and rushed. Not to mention how they seemed to spend more time choosing how much t-shirt their graphics would cover instead of adding more suit pieces.

Topman has some seriously interesting styles, but unfortunately some of them are getting close to American Apparel in level of bland-hipster-ish-ness. However, I will say, for those who fit the style, Topman has some very interesting selections in terms of casual (i.e. very casual, almost western style) shirts and cardigans, which will be a great (and very cheap) asset to anyone in the UK who could use a quick style boost of that nature. And, much like the other two names, Topman carries some very interesting and classic suiting- but I can’t personally vouch for the quality.

A Girl’s Opinion: Their new pieces are as trashy as the PlayBoy t-shirts they sell.

Forever 21 (seemingly running under the label Heritage1981 for men) is at least trying in some respects, with some truly interesting (and some truly absolutely atrocious) styles that are all over the place. On first glance, Forever 21 is a Urban Outfitters-like hipster joint, but some of the staples seem usable- if one kept from going overboard. Tread incredibly carefully- don’t get lost in this season’s ocean of keffiehs and graphic tees.

A Girl’s Opinion: Is it possible to have good quality clothing at affordable prices? Absolutely. But you won’t be finding that at F21. Keep your expectations low and you won’t be let down.

American Apparel continues to try to harass me by attempting to be a legitimate clothier. Nothing in American Apparel is really that stylish or interesting- a lot of it is recycled hipster garbage. Sure, I fully support you buying maybe a t-shirt for an undershirt or a cheap scarf or something, but every attempt American Apparel makes to be a legitimate clothier is every step it makes towards being an absolute farce. It feels somewhat “me-too”-ish for them to suddenly be picking up on wool coats- almost one month before Winter ends. Needless to say, this brand is ridiculous.

A Girl’s Opinion: AA makes great basics and should stick with them. In fact, after reviewing their new styles, I think they should just make plain t-shirts and nothing else; the new styles are unoriginal and pretentious. Also? The models are creeping me out with their excessively hairy inner-thighs. Trim that shit.

Banana Republic I simply adore. While overpriced and obviously somewhat bland in some respects, the Banana Republic line (particularly Banana Republic Monogram, which I have covered before) is full of phenomenal choices in casualwear and suiting- and they just get it “right” in my mind. While somewhat formal in comparison to most stores, BR is clearly trying to innovate (including, strangely enough, trying to bring back tennis sweaters) in a way that makes me still love them to death. More recently, BR is attempting to pair classic tones (light/dark greys, off whites, etc) with bright eye-shocking colors like green and orange- and I’m actually liking it.

A Girl’s Opinion: I was pleased to see the diversity within the colors chosen for this season’s new pieces. The prices seem a little steep, but, similar to J. Crew, the quality is excellent, making BR a wonderful place for key pieces.

Gap has some interesting styles, but unfortunately after a quick browse through their wares, I’m getting a shade bit turned off to their style- and it’s all because of the quality. While some of their absolute basics (their jeans, shirts, possibly their sweaters) are fairly well made, some of their more upper end items (coats and blazers come to mind) feel a bit cheap. By all means, this is not to say you can’t go wrong- the new stuff just doesn’t feel very solid. As for new styles, I really haven’t noticed any- except for some madras shirts, everything is essentially the same as last year- so more of the decent-but-not-wonderful.

A Girl’s Opinion: The colors were the high point for the new pieces. Nothing was very interesting, and nothing seemed to be essential to have for spring.

Old Navy should not be entered unless you absolutely must, and if you do find something you like there, I would be incredibly wary of paying too much for it- more and more, Old Navy is feeling like a recycling bin for 3 year old fashion with smatterings of the new stuff thrown in at safe levels. It’s made for lower tier shoppers- namely, cheap soccer moms. Not fashionable.

A Girl’s Opinion: When did Old Navy decide to jack their prices while still keeping the same poor quality? I’m unimpressed with them and their weak attempts to salvage any sort of reputation in fashion. Truly hideous work.

Perry Ellis is best described as really expensive for no discernible reason. It feels FAR more expensive than it needs to be, especially for some of the more stereotypically cheap stuff. Nonetheless, as always, the accessories and suiting are interesting- but still, be wary of the pricing.

A Girl’s Opinion: Simple, clean and ordinary. Not a bad choice, but definitely no must-haves. However, their ties are rather fabulous and incorporate some colors you rarely see men wearing. Flawless execution.

Polo Ralph Lauren is doing what the brand always does- continuing to make preppier and preppier stuff, extending the limits of what people would actually wear. As always, there are some clearly amazing things in the new arrival lineup and some things I’d certainly see as good purchases, but good LORD are there some wild patterns/styles. Frankly, some of the colors available now are so ridiculous no-one with any sense of fashion would wear them- but simultaneously, some things could be worked with. Travel carefully, as always.

A Girl’s Opinion: Madras shorts are making a comeback this season, and PRL has done a great job with them. Apart from the shorts, I must say I’m quite impressed with the new styles; the color palette is absolutely divine this season. PRL won’t let you down, even if it means your wallet hurts.

Armani Exchange shows some promise (predominantly stuff no doubt inspired by the Armani label), but everything else is, unfortunately, like every other year, overdone overpriced trash. Like Polo Ralph Lauren, some of the styles show forms of promise and I would certainly purchase them myself, but on the whole, the A|X label seems to be a lot of ridiculous crap- the kind of stuff that one would have to spend a lot of money on to justify wearing. It seems like a lot of A|X is flashing the label anyway.

A Girl’s Opinion: Armani makes excellent jeans for men, and the washes for this season are quite flattering. Their jackets display an edgier vibe than found in the other brands mentioned, but the sweaters and swimwear (good god, put away the briefs) make this a destination only for the strongest of men. Or, Europeans

Abercrombie and Fitch is, as expected, doing absolutely nothing original sans a few small changes to justify having a new line. Of note, the only thing that really seems incredibly new is the use of contrast collars for their oxford shirts, which seem somewhat awkward and, as usual, seem to be more about the label than the actual clothing. As usual, stay far, far away.

A Girl’s Opinion: I’m struggling to find contrast between this season’s line and any other season’s. In fact, I’m finding it hard to find many differences, apart from pricing, between all of Abercrombie’s labels. Even their fragrances are eerily similar.

Hollister, which is owned by the same company as Abercrombie and Fitch, is naturally doing nothing new much like it’s older (and more racy) brother. In fact, Hollister is doing nothing new- only the most extreme initiates would be able to differentiate what they did this season from what they did three years ago.

A Girl’s Opinion: Don’t waste your time, there’s nothing great here. The plaid shorts are nice, but that’s about it.

Ruehl No.925 has fundamentally done nothing new or interesting, but for posterity, I’ll include them. Ruehl No.925, being yet another Abercrombie and Fitch brand, lovingly features the exact same crap (the same distressed look) that both Abercrombie and Fitch, Hollister, and even American Eagle are trying to pull off. Obviously, avoid.

A Girl’s Opinion: Unoriginal, overpriced and tasteless. No surprises here.

American Eagle is really just scaling back it’s line to summer- taking away the (somewhat interesting but still somewhat ugly) wool peacoats and replacing them with graphic tees, western style oxfords, and board shorts. Naturally, none of this is really interesting or that different from last year, and obviously none of it is really stylish.

A Girl’s Opinion: AE now seems to offer old man night shirts and way too many boring graphic t-shirts. I do enjoy the cut of their jackets, though.

Nautica has yet to break out of their obsession with blue and white, though they do show some promise with some styles- but promise as in “other colors”, not “stuff I should buy”. Nautica continues to be a kind of sub-Polo Ralph Lauren golf brand, the kind of brand that keeps trying but utterly fails at being anything but a flash in the pan of good style. Leave this brand to old men.

A Girl’s Opinion: If you’ve ever liked something Nautica has put out, their new items won’t let you down; they all look the same. They’ve done essentially the same thing year after year after year.

Eddie Bauer is, at this point, exactly like Nautica in that it is best left to older men. While it certainly has the “rough mountain man” style down, it nonetheless fails at having anything of any stylistic note- and, more importantly, it fails at providing very good cuts for much of it’s casual wear. That being said, Eddie Bauer is a great place to buy legitimately functional clothing- like, stuff to go hike and bike and trek in- but when it comes to looking damn good, Eddie Bauer is best left to older men with teenaged children.

A Girl’s Opinion: It’s nothing special but the quality is great. Definitely a safe choice for the outdoorsy adventurer.

Lands End is the comfortable, reliable sort of brand that rarely changes itself around and stays pretty bland all year round- it’s got solid stuff for families that will hold up, but it’s unassuming to the point where it really doesn’t do much for anyone other than hide nakedness. I like the brand, don’t get me wrong- it just isn’t “fashion”, it’s “function”. And that’s where it should stay.

A Girl’s Opinion: Two words: duck pants. I cannot express how wonderful these pants are. In my opinion, they’re the only good thing about Lands End.

Conclusions

Unfortunately, what we were hoping to be a season of a lot of innovation has become soemthing of a season of stagnation for many designers- but that doesn’t doom the entire industry. Some specific groups, particularly Banana Republic and J.Crew, are beginning to really come forth in the ready-to-wear market and make niches for themselves where huge holes are left- and this is the time to begin to buy. The new conservative looks promoted by these companies is perfect, and a surefire buy for this season.

Of course, thanks to Alexandra for providing a great second opinion on this season’s analysis, and thanks to your constant support via comments and the forums that help make these analyses easy!

Most fashion columnists, when tasked to describe the new season, tend to look to Milan for answers. This is wrong. It perpetrates the belief that Milan is anything but one big joke made on style magazines and television shows by Europeans. When you have hundreds of fashion writers believing that stuff like on the left is fashion, you have America by the balls (PS: John Galliano, I hate you as much as you apparently hate fashion).

Rather, I look at what stores are coming out with- you know, I just troll around malls for about a day, checking out what’s there. And thus, with no further adieu, I bring you a guide of what’s cool (in my opinion) in the ready-to-wear fashion world.
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